Regulations

Getting (and keeping) a raw-milk permit in 2025

Fresh raw milk being poured through a strainer into a stainless steel vat

Our raw-milk production licence comes up for renewal every five years. We completed our second renewal in October 2025. It was more demanding than the first, partly because the regulatory framework has tightened since 2019 and partly because we expanded our production space in 2022, which triggered a re-inspection of the modified facility rather than a straightforward administrative renewal.

I am writing this down because when we went through the first renewal in 2019 I could not find any practical account of what was actually involved. The NVWA website describes the legal requirements. It does not tell you that the drainage assessment takes eight weeks or that your HACCP plan needs to reference specific EU Regulation articles by number.

The legal basis

Raw-milk cheese production in the Netherlands is governed by EU Regulation 853/2004 (hygiene rules for food of animal origin) as implemented by the Dutch Warenwet. For aged hard cheeses — Gouda styles aged more than 60 days — there is a derogation in 853/2004 Annex III, Section IX that permits use of raw milk provided the producer meets enhanced hygiene standards and holds a specific registration.

The 60-day aging rule is important. Our jong belegen (6 weeks) technically cannot be made from raw milk and sold commercially under this derogation — we make it from pasteurised milk. Only the belegen (16 weeks) and oud (11 months) are raw-milk cheeses. This distinction confuses visitors who read that we are a "raw-milk dairy."

The initial registration (2009)

The original registration process in 2009 involved:

The main delay in 2009 was the drainage assessment. The production room floor slope was borderline acceptable under the then-current standard. We had to resurface part of it before the inspection could proceed. That took six weeks and cost more than we had budgeted.

The 2025 renewal

For the 2025 renewal, the inspector (a different one than 2019, which meant re-explaining the layout from scratch) required everything from 2009 plus:

The allergen management plan was the piece I had not anticipated. Caraway seeds are not something we buy in large quantities or store near other ingredients, but the plan still needed to document procurement source, storage conditions, and the cleaning procedure between komijnekaas and plain-curd batches. It is not complicated, but it took an afternoon to write properly and needed a solicitor's review before submission because the NVWA template asks for a legal signatory.

The ongoing monitoring burden

The permit does not just require an initial inspection. It requires:

The testing costs run to about €3,200 per year. That is not trivial for an operation our size. It is also not negotiable.

What I would tell someone starting now

Start the HACCP documentation before you approach the NVWA. The plan needs to be in place for the inspection; inspectors will ask questions about it and you need to know it well enough to answer without looking things up. Hire someone to review the HACCP plan before submission — a food safety consultant rather than a solicitor, unless you are also dealing with an allergen management component.

Budget more time than you think for the drainage and facility assessments. These are not purely administrative — a physical measurement that misses a target by two millimetres will send you back to a contractor.

Keep your SCC records impeccable from day one. The permit renewal process involves reviewing three years of monitoring data. Gaps or inconsistencies in the records create problems that are disproportionate to the underlying hygiene reality.

And: find another raw-milk producer and ask them what their experience was. The NVWA regional offices vary in how they apply the standards. The Noord-Holland office has been consistent and not unreasonable in our experience, but I have heard of more difficult interactions elsewhere.